Cold process soaps

The traditional cold process method The traditional soap making method is called cold process. Basically, it is mixing lye water and oils, and turning this into solid bars of soaps. Each soap maker has his own recipes and favorite oils. Different oils contribute to the different qualities of the soap. Now let's go over the details of how we actually make cold process soap. Our mother, who is an Aromatherapist and beautician with 20 years of experience working in natural cosmetics, taught us to use nature’s best remedies for any need. She showed us the different uses of essential oils, plants and more. We learned the cold process soap making method from her. She is a strong contributor to Latika and still infuses us with ideas and shares her unique recipes only with us.

How is soap made? When making cold process soap, we actually combine water with oil. It sounds impossible right? The way to do achieve this “impossible” is by using something called NaOH, or lye. Formulation: First, come up with a recipe, and run some calculations to make sure the quantities are accurate. Then, make the first batch of soap for that recipe. Perfect each batch until you have the “ultimate soap”. Ingredients: Different oils react in different ways once combined into a whole soap. For example - coconut oil makes a hard bar, creates a lot of bubbles and cleanses very well, but beware – if you use too much you will create a bar that dries the skin. Olive oil is one of our favorites; it nourishes the skin and softens it. Use just enough so you don’t end up with a very soft soap bar, or a bar that creates very little bubbles. These fragile balances are considered “soap makers secrets”, each soap maker preferring his/her own favorite oils, hence making each soap bar created differently. The experience will light your way, the more soap you make, the better your soap will be, the more familiar you will become with each oil and the easier it will be for you to invent new and innovative soap recipes.

What is lye? NaOH, also called lye, or caustic soda, is a flaky powder that requires you to use safety gear when using it. Mixed with water, it will have the ability to change the oil's molecule and turn it into a solid bar of soap. This process is called saponification. Saponification: An oil molecule will connect to another oil molecule from both sides. Water connects to the water. 

The saponification process will result in a molecule that connects to oil from one end and water on the other. That is also how it cleans our skin. After the soap is mixed and poured into molds, it will take a few days to harden. After it hardens it can be cut into bars. Watch out, the soap can’t be used yet! It still has lye in it that must evaporate before you use it. This waiting period is called curing. 

Soaps cure between two to four weeks before they can be used. 

Ingredients used in the cold process soap Method

Soap is made of water and lye, mixed with base oils, essential oils and additives. 

Base oils  

Here are some of our favorites: 

Coconut oil- Adds cleansing qualities and has a beautiful full lather. Very moisturizing when used in the right portion in the soap recipe, too much will cause a dry feeling.  

Shea butter- Extracted from an African nut, it can be used directly on the skin. When making soap, we use a little extra shea butter- some of it would not turn into soap and stay as nourishment in the bar. This trick is called "super fatting". 

Cocoa butter- will make a harder bar, when used as super fat, it will soften the skin, has a lovely chocolate scent.  

Olive oil- Olive oil is one of the best ways to make soap nourishing and moisturizing. High in oleic acid, said to help with skin cell regeneration and acts as a humectant, drawing moisture to the skin. Can be used for making up to 100% olive oil soap - also called Castile soap. Helps preserve the natural moisture of the skin and keep it soft. Olive oil makes a very delicate soap. Jojoba oil- subtle for all skin types, used for super fatting  the soap. Conditions the skin and makes a stable lather. 

Essential oils: 

Essential oils are used in a small amount; we use them for their unique scent and qualities. This is when knowledge of aromatherapy comes in handy. 

Here are some of our favorites: 

Lavender- one of the most used oils in aromatherapy. The scent of lavender has a calming effect, but the oil itself holds many soothing abilities which are great to treat a large number of skin conditions. It will help the skin heal and rejuvenate. After a burn or a bite.  

Patchouli- the earthy scent is wonderful and refreshing. Patchouli has an antiseptic effect on the skin. The scent is a favorite for man and woman.  

Bergamot- fresh and royal aroma of a floral citrus scent. it is said to help generate a happy feeling, which makes it a favorite aromatherapy oil.  

Mint- wonderful oil that helps in so many cases. Use a mint scented soap for a cool shower on a hot summer day, or for a hot bath on a cold winter night to fresh up and fight a cold. It is said that this oil will help repel insects. The scent helps focus and clarity and is also calming. Good for a refreshing shower at the start of a long day, but also for a calming bath at the end of a long day at the office (or soap factory).  

Additives: 

Herbs such as Lavender, Rosemary, Rose petals and mint leaves. 

Fresh goat milk 

Local Honey- The beneficial effect of honey on the skin has an age-old repute. Honey has a nourishing, bleaching, astringent and antiseptic effect on the skin. Recommended for problematic skin- it will help fight those "pimples" away and keep skin looking alive and nourished.  

Seeds such as ground Apricot grains, berry seeds- used for their texture. We add seeds to the soap for a peeling effect or a massaging feel from the bar. The effect depends on the shape and size of the seed. 

The massaging stimulates the bloodstream and helps the skin clean itself. 

A light peeling helps rejuvenate the skin. Peeling soaps are recommended for use up to three times a week and not to be used on irritated skin.  

Seaweed powder- A rich source of vitamins and antioxidants.  

Spices and root powders such as Turmeric- That is the culinary name for the Curcumin, which comes from the ginger family. It is very healthy as a spice but also great for cosmetic use. Its strong anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory characteristics are its most obvious medicinal properties. In order to treat a little cut- mix honey and turmeric powder and apply like cream. It has anti -viral, -fungal, -bacterial effects which makes it perfect for problematic skin. 

Different Clay types from around the world, such as: 

Rose clay- pink and delicate. White clay or Red Moroccan clay, French green clay- cleanses the pores and purifies the skin. Provides a layer of protection when used for shaving.  And many more… 

Our cold process soaps are made in limited editions.